Sleeve Construction Details Broken Down

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I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I began this project. My thinking was, "It's a jacket, how hard can it be?" The following pictures illustrate my second attempt at constructing the sleeve. The first one didn't turn out as well due to the complications around the cuff where the buttons and button holes are put in.

First, seam lining and shell fabrics as shown.

Pin cuff interfacing to inside of sleeve, then baste.
Pin trim to cuff along hemline. The ends hide in side seams. 
With wrong sides together, align lining and shell.

Fold lining back along sleeve seam line and pin allowances together, leaving 4" at top and bottom of sleeve.

Repeat on the second sleeve inseam.

Baste (or pin) along quilting lines.


Sew Quilt lines being sure to leave enough thread on the outside to pull it through to the inside for tying off.



Pin the sleeve bottom hem along the trim.

Fold the trim as shown and pin the side sleeve hems.


Seam the sleeve, stopping at the intersection with the interfacing.

Trim at corner to dot and fold the last piece of the shell hem in place.

Sew the lining to the cuff to close everything. A real couture seamstress would hand-stitch this. I cheated.


  

Finally, sew the button holes and buttons. A word of warning, practice this many times before attacking your couture fabric! (Notice how my button holes are of different sizes? Do not do this. Just one of my many mistakes.)







































NOT SHOWN: Turn the sleeve inside-out and hand-stitch the lining closed. 

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